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North Coast Exploration: from Caithness to Durness

May 4, 2018 by Susan Leave a Comment

When we moved from Inverness to Caithness, my heart sunk just a little at the prospect that the drive to Achmelvich Bay (my favourite place in Scotland) in the heart of the NC500, would not be in such easy reach on our days off – would we find such staggering natural beauty on the North Coast? I needn’t have worried, as towering mountains, scenic panoramas, caves, and stunning white beaches all feature on a drive from Thurso to Durness.

north coast

The drive along the north coast takes two hours, although I defy anyone to drive it without stopping to admire the view or to take a few sneaky photos.

There’s plenty of places to stop and explore –  the main settlements once out of Thurso are Melvich, Bettyhill, and Tongue.

north coast

We were on a mission – or rather my brother was, to get a ride on Golden Eagle Ziplines, over Ceannabeinne beach,  but when we arrived in Durness, it was too windy and the flight time was moved to the early afternoon.

north coast

So we continued west, onto Balnakeil Craft Village. The history of this place – a former Ministry of Defence building is fascinating and more can be read here about the development of this unique collection of craft businesses.

north coast

The rather original uninspiring grey flat-roofed buildings have been considerably brightened up with a lick of paint.

north coast

north coast

And even calor gas bottles get the upcycled treatment here!

north coast

Painted signs guide you to the next hub of crafters and painters…

north coast

whilst some need no sign, becuase their property advertises itself!

north coast

This restaurant was a new addition since our previous visit in 2015 – promising lots of locally caught fish and Scottish ingredients, The Whale Tale looks one to watch.

north coast

On we explored, until our final stop at Balnakeil – Cocoa Mountain. For just over £5 get a towering hot chocolate with two chocolates of your choice (with over 20 to choose from, it’s a hard decision! I chose maple and pecan, and raspberry).

north coast

Fortunately my brother didn’t choose this option, as a return journey to Ceannabeinne beach was next on our list. Once safety gear was on, he was away down the zipline…

north coast

can you spot him?

north coast

We then backtracked to Smoo Cave.

north coast

There’s something about walking down the hill and into a big dark cave that makes you feel very very small.

north coast

It’s a geologist’s dream, and off-season the tour guides get involved in digs to discover more about the rocks and inhabitants of these caves.

north coast

Tours operate in high season for a small charge, (although you can walk over the wooden bridge into the main chamber for free)…

north coast

but beware that tours can be cancelled at short notice – darn you, pesky sheep!

north coast

We started our journey back east along the north coast, when the sun came right out from behind the clouds and gave us just the most beautiful caribbean-like beaches.

north coast

It was so peaceful – just the sound of the occasional vehicle, bird or wind. Idyllic!

north coast

Of course we still stopped lots, just in awe that Scotland has so much beauty!

north coast

Filed Under: CAITHNESS & NC500 Posts Tagged With: balnakeil, bettyhill, caithness, cocoa mountain, craft village, durness, golden eagle, nc500, north coast, smoo cave, sutherland, tongue, zipline

Previous Post: « NC500 East Coast: Afternoon tea at the Dornoch Castle Hotel (Review)
Next Post: NC500 East Coast: Whaligoe Steps Cafe »

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I’m Susan and welcome to A Highland Blend – a business service primarily promoting the people, products and places in the far north of Scotland. I offer digital media and VA support services for businesses in Caithness and beyond. To find out more, please check out my About Me or Available Services pages. To sign up for monthly business emails, please click on the image below!

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